Yet another person that I know took their own life recently
The number who have done this is now so great I can’t even name all of them… Some I was close to, some friends of friends, some relatives … and some relatives of friends ….
I’ve never been able to understand how someone could be driven that far and even harder to comprehend is the people who you perceive to “have it all” like Robin Williams who was a personal hero of mine … and more recently the lead singer of the band “Sound Garden” Chris Cornell .
It’s ironic because in the last few years I’ve had so many people tell me that I am ” Living the dream” because I’ve been able to travel and pursue three of my passions travel, photography and surfing … but the reality is … it hasn’t been easy and I’ve had my own battle with depression on and off for quite a while … Continue reading →
Actually its really been almost 2 months since the onset of this mystery virus..
For some reason I have aching bones and limbs and headaches all the time….
Its been a nightmare trying to work, study and just deal with everyday life. If it wasnt for Ibuprofen I probably would have stayed in bed the whole time.
The doctors have turned me into some sort of test case and experimental pin cushion with all the blood tests.
Value this time in your life, kids. ‘Cause this is the time in your life when you still have your choices.
It goes by so fast.
When you’re a teenager, you think you can do anything and you do.
Your twenties are a blur….
Thirties. You raise your family. You make a little money. And you think to yourself, “What happened to my twenties?”
Forties. You grow a little pot belly. You grow another chin. The music starts to get too loud.
One of your old girlfriends from high school becomes a grandmother.
Fifties. You have a minor surgery. You call it a “procedure.” But it’s a surgery.
Sixties. You’ll have a major surgery. The music is still loud, but it doesn’t matter, because you can’t hear it anyway. Continue reading →
In early 2007 I was down at Snapper Rocks watching the Quiky Pro, when Mick Fanning came running past in one of his early heats.
He looked so fit and focused , I turned to my friend and said
“You know , Mick will win this comp and go on to take out the world title.
A big call I know for the first round of the first contest of the year.
Of course my prediction was laughed at and ridiculed by my friend……….that is until a week later when Mick won!!
Sure its easy to claim this 2 years later with no proof.
And there in lays the reason behind this story.
If Im right this time I will have it on record. And if Im wrong …..who cares?? Continue reading →
One of my Facebook friends posted this video of Johnny Rivers, singing the song ‘Secret Agent Man’.
Its an absolute classic song.
I was 6 years old in 1966 and I dont think Ive ever seen the TV show…
But this song has stuck in my head from way back then.
Its sounds a little like a Dick Dale surf guitar tune.
I love it
When I went to Youtube to get the embed code for ‘Secret Agent Man’ I came a cross another classic from 66 .
Nancy Sinatra and ‘These boots are made for walking’
Ive travelled the world and had some very close encounters with the “men in the grey suits’
but this morning I saw the biggest mother of a shark Ive ever seen.
This morning I went for a surf at Cabarita beach , south of the Gold Coast.
The water was a bit cooler than the last few weeks . Summer is over I guess??
I’d had a few good waves and been out for about 30 minutes when a Brazilian surfer alerted me that he had just seen a shark.
I didnt wait to discuss it and took off for the shore.
The Brazilian guy’s look of shock was enough to confirm that it wasnt just some little reef shark. Continue reading →